Homeowners want to know how wide the wall needs to be to fit a pocket door, whether existing plumbing or electrical in the wall rules out installation, and what handles work when the door disappears into the wall. A website that explains pocket door framing and hardware earns the installation call. Free mockup, no commitment.
For Pocket Door Installation in KC
Web Design for Pocket Door Installation Companies in Kansas City
Pocket door installation customers are KC homeowners replacing a swing door in a bathroom hallway where the arc conflicts with a vanity or toilet, homeowners converting a pantry or closet opening to gain back the swing radius in a tight kitchen, or homeowners finishing a basement and building new partitions where a pocket door eliminates the swing problem before it starts. The central education is rough opening size, what the wall cavity must contain (or not), and how the hardware works once the door is inside the pocket. Rough opening size: a pocket door rough opening must be twice the door width plus 1 inch — a 32-inch door requires a 65-inch rough opening; the rough opening height is the door height plus 2.5 inches minimum to allow for the header track and door suspension hardware; the pocket side of the wall (the side the door slides into) must have no obstructions for the full door width depth — no plumbing, no electrical boxes, no HVAC ducts; KC homes with bathroom pocket doors frequently have the toilet supply line running inside the pocket cavity — this must be rerouted before framing begins. Split stud kit: pocket door frames use a split stud kit — a pre-assembled steel-reinforced frame system with a header track, two split studs at the opening, and an end frame at the pocket terminus; the split studs are two pieces that sandwich the door panel as it slides in — they are not full solid studs and do not provide the same wall rigidity; this is why pocket doors should not be installed in bearing walls without a structural header above — the split stud cavity cannot transfer load the way a standard king-and-jack stud assembly does; most interior non-bearing partitions in KC homes are safe candidates; bearing wall identification requires knowing the floor joist direction and the structural plan. Hardware and latch: pocket door handles are flush pulls — a recessed cup or edge pull mortised into the door face so the handle does not protrude when the door is open inside the pocket; standard mortise lock sets for pocket doors include a privacy latch (turn-button on inside for bathrooms) and a passage latch (no lock, for pantry or closet use); the track system uses a roller hanger suspended from the header track — quality roller hangers (Johnson Hardware, Stanley) have adjustable hangers that correct for a door that drifts out of plumb after installation; cheap track systems develop rattle and jump the track over time — the track and roller quality is the most important specification in a pocket door kit. Drywall around the opening: after the split stud frame is installed, the pocket cavity walls are drywalled separately — the drywall must be trimmed to the exact clearance to allow the door to slide without scraping; the edge of the opening is cased with a pocket door jamb and casing that returns into the pocket wall face. A pocket door website that explains the two-times-door-width rule, why the pocket cavity must be clear of plumbing, and how the split stud differs from a bearing wall earns the homeowner who wants to solve the swing arc problem without guessing.
What homeowners research before pocket door installation
- Rough opening size — 2x door width + 1 inch rule, height clearance for track hardware, existing wall width check
- Pocket cavity obstructions — plumbing and electrical rules, supply line rerouting, HVAC duct conflicts
- Bearing wall identification — floor joist direction, split stud load limitation, when structural header is required
- Split stud kit — pre-assembled frame system, track and roller quality differences, Johnson vs. budget hardware
- Mortise hardware — flush pull types, privacy latch for bathroom, passage latch for pantry, adjustable hanger
What your pocket door installation website would include
- Rough opening section — 2x width rule, height requirement, wall depth check, how to measure existing opening
- Obstruction check guide — plumbing and electrical rules, rerouting process, what requires opening the wall
- Bearing wall section — identification method, split stud limitation, when a structural engineer is needed
- Hardware section — split stud kit options, track and roller quality, adjustable hanger benefit
- Mortise latch guide — flush pull types, privacy vs. passage function, door thickness requirement
- Quote form with door size, opening location, basement or main floor, bearing wall concern, timeline
What clients say
“The obstruction check section saved me from two jobs that would have gone badly. KC bathrooms — especially in 1970s ranches — almost always have the toilet supply line running inside the pocket wall. Both customers found out from the section before calling me, told me upfront there was a line in the wall, and we budgeted the reroute into the estimate. No surprises when we opened the wall. The bearing wall section also filtered out one call that I couldn't take — customer read it, figured out their wall was load-bearing, and went with a barn door instead. Better outcome for them, no liability for me.”
— R. Dunning, interior door and framing, Lee's Summit, MO
Simple pricing
A pocket door site with rough opening section, obstruction check guide, and quote form starts at $200. A full site with bearing wall guidance, hardware selection, and mortise latch content is $425–$750. One pocket door installation covers the cost. No contracts, no monthly fees.
Ready to get started?
Get a free mockup — no obligation. Fill out the form below, or give me a call.